(click on images for larger view)
This picture is from when I first got the car. I am standing in the bed of my truck to get an overhead shot.
My car features removable seats, courtesy the DPO. He apparently “needed to be able to get out of the car in a hurry,” and so bolted it to 2x6’s.
The passenger side features the ejection seat model, as it isn’t even bolted to the wood on the floor.
This air horn was mounted in the front of the car and connected to the terminals on the washer pump. Every time I pushed the washer switch it made a nasty noise.
The Mysterious Green Wire — This wire started out under the dash on the passenger side, went through the firewall and all the way to the front of the car... and then came all the way back! Just one big loop! Why? WHY?!?
Three splices, three colors. The splice closest to the temp sensor doesn’t even have electrical tape on it.
Working on the wiring. Took me a while to figure out why the map light was always on... the switch was wired wrong!
The Bosch alternator, cleaned and ready for reassembly. The only part replaced was the voltage regulator/ brush set seen at the left side.
The Bosch alternator installed in the car. You can also see that I replaced the three splices with ONE.
My temporary horn. I got it out of a Datsun for $2.50 and put it on a plastic bracket so I could use the original wiring. I like to keep things the same as much as possible so it is easier to undo later.
The disassembled tachometer. All I had to do to fix it was turn the white screw on the back.
This picture shows the Bondo lumps. You can actually see the bondo protruding from the car. Nasty.
This is the other side of the car with the Bondo lumps sanded away. A little of that Bondo is mine, but I took off a lot more than I put on. Obviously the sills need to be replaced.
These are the old and new speedometer drive adapters (sorry, crappy camera).
Another “before” picture.
I got a couple pieces of rod at work and turned the ends on a lathe to round them off. With these I managed to bang out nearly all th dents in the bumpers and over riders. Here you can see a “before” and “after” over rider.
The car has been wet-sanded with 400 grit and is now ready for painting.
Being the Ignorant Newbie, I make many mistakes...  How to fix a drip line, thanks to John D. Weimer:
“Start with some 320 wet or dry on a hard sander block and carefully wet sand it nearly to the point of having it smoothed out. Then switch to the 400 and softly wet sand until you reach the point you want.”
“Finish by wet sanding the spot with 1500 then 2000 grit and buff it or hand rub it out.” Here you can see I need to do a little more sanding, too.
Wet sanding with 1500 grit proved to be too much for this area, I sanded through the paint! So I decided to just re-spray from the trim line on down.
I wondered if the rubbing compound would work on the haze on the tail light lenses as well as it did on the paint. Yes, it did. The picture isn’t as clear as it could be, but you can see a definite improvement.
The license plate lights proved to be a big bother. One of the bulbs came out of its socket and I had to practically chisel it out with a little screw driver. I ended up replacing the guts for 75¢.
I replaced the nasty rusted door mounting studs and nuts with stainless steel screws and nuts. The screw heads made it very easy to thread into the door handle from inside the door, then just tighten the nut. (as opposed to trying to thread that tiny nut onto the stud...)
The DPO provided me with the original nasty, moldy seat belts. They looked ugly and I couldn’t figure out how they worked. Fortunately my Mom had a pair of perfectly good cinch-type belts from the back seat of a Ford in her garage she was only too happy to be rid of. They are now installed and work just fine.
I wet sanded pretty much the whole car with 2000 grit prior to rubbing it out.
Rubbing looks nice. I used a wool buffing pad chucked into a variable speed drill. That made it easy to go slowly, which gave better results.
Finish compound looks even better. You can see a better shine. I did all the finish by hand.
Putting the parts on the back of the car as I go along with the finish compound.
Putting the parts on the front of the car. The front bumper was a bitch. I guess straightening it out didn’t help it. I ended up putting the back bolts in and then using a floor jack to lift on the towing eyes to get the front bolts in.
All done! Not bad for a 12' paint job.
Another view. Ain’t she cute?
The house, the car, and I. If you see anyone else driving my MGB, call the police! She’s been kidnaped! –ah, I mean, it’s been stolen!
Dismantling the speedometer. Note the forceps and set of small screwdrivers. Came in very handy.
The odometer is behind the drag cup in this picture. The end of the needle bearing sticking out of the drag cup was covered with dirty, dried up grease. No wonder it stuck! After cleaning it up, I put a very small amount of lithium grease on just the tip and reassembled it. Later I found it was the spring dragging on the cup.
Building the voltage stabilizer. Note the C-clamp on the soldering iron. This is one of the few times I wish I had one of those things with all the alligator clips.
This is the completed Wraybilizer. Not nearly as fancy as other versions, but this solid state voltage stabilizer is suppose to be more accurate and durable than the stock part. Costs less, too.
The carpet from Kim de B off the BBS is laying around the dining room to flatten out. Thanks Kim, yer a pal!
As I was ripping up the old carpet, I found the DFPO had spray painted it AFTER he put it in the car. And if that wasn't bad enough, he used the house style waffle padding underneath!
Nasty old carpet waiting for trash day.
I weighed down the padding on the top of the tranny tunnel so I could glue down the edges. You can also see I’ve discovered the use for the Mysterious Green Wire... to hold the console up out of the way while I work!
The carpet is being installed. The sills have been glued down using contact cement and the tranny tunnel piece was screwed down using stainless sheet metal screws with cup washers. After that I glued down the part under the console and glued the splits together. Turned out pretty nice.
The finished carpet installation, ready for the interior trim and seats. Not new, but a damn sight better than it was. Thanks, Kim! You’re a pal.
Gary Lloyd 1952-2004 Drive well.
I wanted to put an 8 sticker on the car since I decided to paint it black, since it would look like an 8-ball. I got a sheet of white vinyl sticker from McMaster-Carr for all of six bucks including shipping. Then I printed out the 8 on paper and used artist spray glue to stick it to the plastic. Then I cut it out.
After that I just stuck it to the car. Unfortunately it had a couple bubbles in it, but other than that it turned out okay.
All done! When I finished I took the car for a drive and I felt it had more horsepower... Everybody knows stickers add horsepower. Otherwise why would race cars have so many?
Backed the little car out of the garage one day to find gasoline dribbling all over. I found that the tube feeding the carb from the float bowl was split. Rather than pay $30+shipping for a replacement assembly, I took a short length of fuel line and replaced the broken piece.
Inspecting the rear brakes. Look pretty good, plenty of meat on the shoes, and drum wear looks okay.
A while after I had replaced the fuel tube (and immediately after the issue with the dizzy), the car started spewing gas again, this time out of the carb overflow. Found the problem was the Mopar fuel pump the DFPO installed. Probably 7-8 psi, twice what the car needs.
I bought a Carter ‘buzzer’ pump and installed it in the battery box where the Mopar pump was. Not original by any means, but filter replacement should be easier as it is right under the battery cover.
How to Make Your Own Hood Pull – Take some coat hanger and straighten it out. Wrap one end all the way around 3/4" PVC pipe (1" copper or black iron will do as well) to get a good size finger pull.
Stick it through the wiring grommet under the left front fender and feed it to the hood release mechanism. Wrap it around the pole and cut off the excess. I use mine all the time.

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